Ultimately, it all comes down to the material. How much does it captivate you? Can you simply say, "I love it"? To be frank, if the material is right, the shape doesn't even matter.
This is our fundamental approach. In that sense, the Sheep Mesh series might be the most representative of REN.
"In India, we can do things like this as well."
The starting point was a single sheet introduced to us by someone who intermediates transactions with overseas factories. It was made from strips of sheep leather, woven using a technique called 'ajiro' (braided weaving). When I saw the fine weave, I assumed it was machine-made, but to my surprise, I was told that it was entirely handwoven.
It was love at first sight.
Supple handwoven craftsmanship. The allure of Sheep Mesh.
The fabric of Sheep Mesh is crafted from sheepskin, originally tanned for use in gloves, which is finely cut and woven using the 'ajiro' technique. By cutting and sewing this sheet-like leather, bags are formed. It's similar to the way knitwear is made in the world of clothing. This method allows for a high degree of design flexibility.
The finely cut sheepskin is soft and pliable from the start, but to further enhance its supple texture, we infuse it with more oil than usual. Additionally, oil is blended into the pigment used to adjust the color, which is then lightly sprayed and absorbed, creating a touch that feels as if it clings to your hand.
Making soft things appear even softer.
We wanted to truly showcase the softness that can be felt from a single sheet of this material, ensuring it appears as soft as it feels. In particular, we paid special attention to the 'beauty when held.'
We carefully examined how the bag 'falls' when filled to different levels, how the curves of the bag change, how it looks when carried on the shoulder, and how it feels when held in the hand. With these considerations in mind, we repeatedly refined the curves of the 'Circle Basket.'
By avoiding the use of stiffeners and not adding hardware to the opening, instead opting for a drawstring closure, we achieved an incredibly lightweight design.
The advantages are highlighted precisely because there are disadvantages.
While the remarkable softness is certainly attractive, sheepskin does have a weakness in its lack of strength. The bags are designed with lining to ensure that the load doesn’t directly stress the leather, but even so, with use, they are prone to losing shape and becoming distorted over time.
However, when I occasionally get to see the bags owned by our customers, I’m delighted to notice how beautifully they have evolved over time.
If cared for properly, the bag develops a sheen and matures into something that reflects the user’s unique character. On the other hand, if treated roughly, it will show wear accordingly, so it might not be a bag that can be recommended to just anyone.
Even so, it's a material that responds when used with care and affection.
Although these aspects might generally be considered 'disadvantages,' we often see them as unique charms that only leather can offer.
For example, the four-strand braid on the handle is a handcraft unique to the factory in India. While a close look might reveal some imperfections in the details, this also gives it a 'charm' that mass-produced items lack. A disadvantage doesn’t always mean it’s a flaw.
That is one of the reasons why we at REN are so passionate about leather goods.
The REN way: creating with thought and consideration, embracing the challenges along the way.
For a long time, I wanted to create a bag with a shape like the 'Circle Basket,' but I hadn’t found the right material.
Even when I tried with other leathers, I couldn't achieve the shape I envisioned. The final result was only possible by using a leather that combined a soft, supple texture with the added strength provided by the lining.
The material and shape came together perfectly.
When creating a new product at REN, it's rare for us to start with plans for a full series from the beginning.
We first engage with the material, then think about the products we genuinely want to create.
The impression of leather when it’s laid out flat is completely different from how it looks once it’s turned into a product, so it’s common that we can’t always bring our ideas to life as we imagined.
On the other hand, because we aren't specifically aiming for a particular concept or series, we can experiment freely, trying and erring along the way. By thinking things through as we go, we often discover unexpected benefits.
Even after multiple revisions, the curves of the 'Circle Basket' can still develop unexpected distortions. Yet, that randomness is also part of the charm of leather.
It may not be the most polished approach, but that’s how we create our products.
Sheep Mesh product list.