The Secrets Behind the Address Wallet's Craftsmanship.

The Secrets Behind the Address Wallet's Craftsmanship.

The Carefully Crafted Address Wallet

▲ Left: Address Wallet Short / Right: Address Wallet

 

The Address Wallet Short is approximately half the size of the full-size Address Wallet. Instead of simply shrinking the larger size, we have adjusted the leather thickness and layering to enhance usability. The result is a compact design that fits comfortably in a woman's hand.

 

 

Designed for Ease of Use

The key feature is the card storage space located in the bill compartment.

In addition to the interior card slots, there is a card storage space on the right side of the bill compartment. By storing frequently used cards here, you can access them without opening the belt. This small detail greatly enhances the wallet's usability.

 

 

The playful interior color scheme, which you can appreciate every time you use it, is also a charming feature. The interior of the matte gray wallet features deep burgundy cowhide and vibrant green pig leather. This striking contrast between the exterior and interior is unusual for REN items and makes a memorable impression.

 

This color scheme is a thoughtful detail that REN has carefully crafted for the user, highlighting our commitment to unique design elements.

 

 

What is BUBBLE CALF?

The exterior "cowhide BUBBLE CALF" used in our products is a shrunken calf leather tanned by the prestigious French tannery, Dupuy. It is made from the finest raw hides of European calves, primarily from France. This leather features an uneven, richly textured grain and a smooth, soft feel.

 

The natural texture and plush feel of this leather come from its non-embossed nature. Even when using the same BUBBLE CALF, the grain patterns vary widely—some are rugged and pronounced, while others are more flat. This variation is what makes natural leather so fascinating.

 

▲Staff's Favorite: Address Wallet (m.black) / Used for about 2 years

 

The allure of this material lies in its gradual aging process.

The shine gradually increases while maintaining the unique grain of the BUBBLE CALF. It develops a naturally worn-in look over time. This slow, graceful transformation is perhaps one of the most distinctive qualities of the leather used by REN.

 

 

We currently offer five types of items in BUBBLE CALF. These include the notebook-style long wallet "Address Wallet," the palm-sized "Mini Wallet," the slim long wallet "Flat Long Wallet," the "Address Wallet Short," and the "Card Case."

▶︎ Here is the list of BUBBLE CALF products

 

 

To the Crafting Site

The sewing of REN's Address Wallet is done by Yukari Kimura, the designer of the leather item brand "LITSTA," which has a shop in Kuramae. This wallet is a product born from the unique connections within the Kuramae community.

 

 

After specializing in tailoring at a vocational school, Ms. Kimura worked for an apparel company while teaching herself the art of hand-stitching bags. Together with her then-colleague, Yuki Sato, she founded the leather item brand "LITSTA.""LITSTA" stands for  “Life Is The Stage To Act.” 

 

“We want to make people's stages more beautiful with our creations.”

With that in mind, we create unique leather items filled with our passion and dedication every day.

 

 

As we requested a new size of the Address Wallet, we visited the crafting site. We stopped by LITSTA's shop and atelier, located just a two-minute walk from REN's Kuramae store.

 

 

The Key Step: Preparation

The BUBBLE CALF used for the exterior is a very soft leather, whereas the cowhide (Bulgano) used for the interior is thicker and stiffer. The Address Wallet combines these soft and hard materials. Pairing the soft material with a deliberately stiff one is a technique to avoid relying on a stiffener. This choice of materials allows for a more natural design than using a conventional stiffener.

 

However, when sewing together materials with different textures, misalignment can easily occur.To achieve a beautiful finish, the key lies in the preparation before sewing. During cutting, the leather is cut larger than the pattern to allow for easier adjustments in case of misalignment. Additionally, gluing is done in advance to stabilize the materials before sewing. These measures help prevent sewing misalignment. Ms. Kimura mentions that this preparation phase is actually the most time-consuming and meticulous part of the production process.

 

 

The meticulous attention to detail extends to the edges of the leather, known as "koba." The grey leather has grey koba, and the deep burgundy leather is matched with an appropriate color. Each edge is carefully painted to match, adding extra steps and time to the process. However, this dedication to detail ensures no compromise on quality, even in the smallest aspects.

 

 

The process of skiving to adjust the thickness of the leather and the imprinting of REN's logo on the interior are also done by Ms. Kimura's skilled hands.

 

"After skiving the cowhide for the interior, I always touch it by hand to ensure the thickness is just right."

 

This approach is consistent across all steps of the process: physically verifying the work by touch. Without skipping this extra effort, each piece is carefully crafted, ensuring that the sense of quality is felt in every single item.

 

 

14 Stitches and 4 Stitches

The primary focus is on user comfort. Since a wallet is used daily, it should provide a stress-free and comfortable experience. Therefore, every detail, from the size to the thickness of the leather, is meticulously designed.

 

One such detail is the leather belt loop.

 

 

When you open and close the Address Wallet, you'll notice that the belt and belt loop fit perfectly. It isn't too tight or too loose; it achieves just the right balance. This precise fit is a result of meticulous design focused on enhancing user comfort and ease of use.

 

 

The secret lies in the sewing machine's stitch length.

The key is ensuring the stitch count for sewing the belt loop to the main body is precise. One side has 14 stitches, and each corner has 4 stitches. By aligning the stitch count exactly as per the design, the belt loop achieves the perfect fit and the ideal balance of tightness and ease of use.

 

 

For items like wallets, it is common to use mass production methods. In a mass production setup, each part and each process is typically handled by the same craftsman, who repeats the same task to maximize efficiency. As a result, it is nearly impossible to standardize the stitch count so precisely.

Because Ms. Kimura handles every step of the process herself, she can achieve this level of consistency and precision. While completing all the steps alone takes more time compared to a mass production setup, her thorough understanding of the materials' characteristics and challenges allows her to pay meticulous attention to detail.

 

The precise stitch count of the belt is one such example of her meticulous attention to detail.

 

 

Design from the Inside Out

"Because of my background in clothing design, I'm particularly focused on how things are made from the inside out. What matters most to me is how the person using it will feel and how they will handle it. I love imagining down to the smallest detail, considering the emotions and actions involved."

 

The core belief in craftsmanship that Ms. Kimura and LITSTA hold dear is designing from the inside out. Their focus is on creating items that prioritize comfort and usability, rather than just manufacturing for the sake of production.

 

For example, when designing clothing, considerations such as body structure and range of motion are essential, as they directly impact comfort. In the case of clothing, these considerations ensure a comfortable fit. While wallets and bags do not need to accommodate body movement in the same way, thoughtful design that considers how they will be used contributes to their overall usability and comfort.

 

It is this attention to detail and dedication, born from a deep understanding of various crafting processes, that sets their work apart.

 

We asked Ms. Kimura, who once crafted clothing, about the appeal of working with "leather" instead of "fabric."

 

 

———-What do you find interesting about working with leather?

"With leather, all the materials come from living beings. The sense of life and the individuality of each piece are what make it so appealing. Because you can feel that life, you naturally want to use it for a long time. Additionally, instead of just wearing out, leather develops a deeper character over time. If I can share that feeling with the user, then I think that's the real meaning and the interesting aspect of using leather."

 

Ms. Kimura's approach to craftsmanship reflects a deep respect for the materials she uses.Above all, there is a deep consideration for the people who will use her creations.

 

 

LITSTA and REN, both located in the crafting hub of Kuramae.

Each Address Wallet is filled with our dedication and passion for craftsmanship. When you visit Kuramae, we would be delighted if you could come and see our meticulously crafted items.

 

We believe you will find unique, carefully crafted items here that you won't find anywhere else.

 

 

 

 

 

LITSTA

111-0051 4-6-9 Kuramae, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Sunny Place Annex 1F
TEL 03-5829-4860
OPEN 12:00-19:00 ※Please check our brand website for the latest business hours.
CLOSE Monday

 

 

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