At the beginning of March, blessed with the gentle warmth of early spring, we visited the SUSAI factory in Kiryu, Gunma—a town known for its rich textile heritage. This year, SUSAI celebrates its 119th anniversary.
We spoke with Ryoko Goto, director of the factory brand "Jacquard Works," who divides her time between Gunma and Tokyo. She shared with us her thoughts on craftsmanship and community, how she came to know REN,Jacquard Weaving by Kiryu Artisans — A Craft Japan Is Proud to Share with the World and the items she currently uses and loves.
Jacquard Weaving by Kiryu Artisans — A Craft Japan Is Proud to Share with the World
As we stepped off the train at Kiryu Station, we were greeted by the lively Yagibushi departure chime and the sharp, chilly wind blowing down from Mount Akagi.
Pausing for a moment to take in this passionate welcome—so typical of the Joshu region—we were soon met by President Sunaga, who kindly picked us up at the station and guided us to the atelier where Ms. Goto was waiting.
Founded in 1906 as a weaving workshop, SUSAI Co., Ltd. has continued to evolve with the times—producing kimono fabrics, dress textiles for export, and jacquard woven fabrics.
Its iconic sawtooth-roof factory, built in the Taisho era, remains in operation today. In 2020, a section of the building was renovated into an atelier and shop space.
The factory is also home to brands like Jacquard Works, directed by Ryoko Goto, which actively develops and sells original products such as bags and hats made from jacquard textiles.
“I believe the true appeal of jacquard weaving lies in its ability to create complex expressions by combining multiple materials,” says Goto.
“By taking advantage of the unique properties of each fiber—such as the ideal heating temperature or the difference in tension—you can bring out textures and patterns, or create color variations within a single weave.
I once heard that a customer from a top international brand said, ‘Even the ideas that were turned down elsewhere, the artisans in Kiryu found a way to make them happen.’ That kind of recognition shows how the techniques passed down through generations here in Kiryu are valued around the world.
It makes me even more determined to pass this craft on to the next generation.”
Unlike printed fabrics, where patterns are applied on top of the cloth, woven textiles have their designs created through the interlacing of individual threads—becoming part of the fabric itself.
Among the many types of woven fabrics, jacquard weaving is particularly intricate, requiring numerous steps and a high level of craftsmanship. The more complex the design, the more it affects the final cost.
As a result, even when a fabric features unique textures or creative expressions, it often gets overlooked by customers looking for garment materials—simply because the price becomes a deciding factor.
To address this, Goto proposed a shift in approach: rather than simply producing and wholesaling fabrics based on incoming orders, they would take the initiative to create their own original jacquard fabrics and develop products in-house through their factory brand.
These products would serve not only as items for sale, but also as showcases of the craftsmanship and potential of jacquard weaving—sparking broader interest and appreciation among a wider audience.
Although developing both fabrics and finished goods from scratch was a challenge at first, the team gradually found their rhythm. Today, each member brings their own ideas to the table, and the process has become something they genuinely enjoy.
“I think more and more industries are starting to develop their own brands, and for us too, it felt like the right time to step outside our usual channels and break away from the fixed ideas we’d unconsciously developed over the years,” says Goto.
“What made me feel it was truly worth the challenge was meeting so many people who said they were genuinely moved after encountering the world of jacquard weaving. Through direct interaction, we’re able to see who is drawn to what kind of pieces, and imagine how they might use them in their daily lives.”
“I remember once during a pop-up event at a department store, a customer was asking lots of thoughtful questions about how the fabric was made. They spent a long time deliberating—and in the end, they bought not just one, but two pieces. And the next day, they came back to the store carrying one of the bags they had purchased.
It was such a heartwarming moment—something we never could have experienced if we hadn’t stepped out and met our customers face-to-face.”
Soft, yet reliable. A REN bag feels as natural as putting on your favorite outfit.
One of the most surprising things we learned during this interview was just how much of a devoted REN user Goto is.
“I was still working at a company when I happened to stop by a shop and instantly fell in love with one of REN’s tote bags. I ended up buying it on the spot,” she recalled, showing us several well-worn bags and wallets with a beautiful, lived-in shine.
And those weren’t all—she mentioned she still has around three more REN bags at home!
“When it comes to anything I buy, the things I fall in love with at first sight and decide on immediately tend to be the ones I love the longest,” says Goto.
“I rarely hesitate or take time to think it over—I just trust that kind of instinctive feeling of, ‘If I love it this much right away, it must be right.’
The bag Goto is carrying is the Square Shoulder Bag M, made from REN’s original goatskin leather, “BARE.”
Large enough to hold a 15-inch laptop, this structured, flat design makes it easy to organize documents and files—perfect as a work bag.
“BARE” goatskin is finely grained and soft, yet highly resistant to abrasion and holds its shape well.
Tanned using only minimal dyes and oils, it’s crafted to preserve the leather’s natural texture and bring out its inherent character.
“I always choose bags that can fit my laptop—that’s a must for me.
I also like that this one lets you tie the shoulder strap to your preferred length. When I need to keep my hands free or when my bag gets heavier with extra things, I wear it crossbody.
Actually, as I touch the bag again now, I’m realizing how the shape and feel have changed over time.
The corners get gently worn depending on what I carry inside, and you can almost feel the weight that’s been held there—it’s probably all part of how the leather develops its character.”
From left: Square Shoulder Bag M (black) / Mini Wallet (indigo blue) / Outer Pocket Wallet (dark gray)
The two wallets Goto brought with her are a trifold Mini Wallet and an Outer Pocket Wallet featuring an exterior coin compartment.
Both offer more storage than they appear to at first glance, combining practicality with a compact size that makes them especially popular.
As the leather softens with continued use, the snugness eases—making the process of breaking them in part of the enjoyment.
“I tend to be pretty rough with my things,” Goto admits with a smile, “but this wallet has held up beautifully—the zipper still works perfectly and looks just as nice. Even when I stuff it with cards and coins, it handles it all just fine. It fits comfortably in my hand and is incredibly easy to use.”
At REN STUDIO WORKS, we’ve actually been helping photograph Jacquard Works’ products since the brand was first established.
About twice a year, they bring their new collections to our studio in Kuramae, where we work together to capture and preserve the essence of their craft through photography.
However, this was our first time visiting them in Kiryu.
The sound and atmosphere of creation unfolding before our eyes was both inspiring and deeply calming—a day that allowed us to truly experience the heart of what makes Jacquard Works so special.
If you’d like to learn more about the jacquard weaving process, we invite you to check out the articles shared by SUSAI on their Note blog.
https://note.com/susai
-PROFILE-
Jacquard Works
Founded in 2022 as the factory brand of SUSAI, a jacquard textile mill, Jacquard Works creates casual, everyday items that retain the rich expressions and textured feel unique to jacquard weaving—where each individual thread contributes to the design.
URL：https://shop.jacquard-works.jp/
Ryoko Goto
Jacquard Director of Works and CEO of URBANWORKS Inc., Ryoko Goto has been involved in numerous urban development projects throughout the Kanto region.
With a strong interest in communities where local industries and economies are closely connected, she also supports startups and emerging businesses as part of her broader work.
She began collaborating with SUSAI (Susai Co., Ltd.) around 2020, and went on to launch the factory brand Jacquard Works in 2022.
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