I want to revive the hidden energy that lies within the city.
Originally from the Kanto region, Goto spent much of her childhood moving from place to place—including time overseas—frequently changing schools along the way.
By the time she was in the upper grades of elementary school, she had already begun dreaming of becoming a designer.
She would often spend time sketching out her ideal floor plans on graph paper, just for fun.
“I absolutely loved graph paper,” Goto recalls.
“In my little childhood bedroom, I would spend hours rearranging imaginary furniture like puzzle pieces—figuring out how things might fit best. Just quietly, all on my own.
Even when I was studying for university entrance exams, I’d take breaks by imagining the apartment I’d live in once I became a college student. It helped keep me motivated.
In the end, I commuted from my family home when I first started university, but later on I lived on my own for a while, and eventually shared a house with three friends during graduate school.”
Goto studied architectural and urban design at university, and her interest in urban development grew out of her experiences living in various cities and being inspired by the cultural and social diversity of each place.
She is now the CEO of URBANWORKS Inc., where she is involved in a wide range of projects—from public urban planning to private-sector development consulting and strategic planning.
In particular, she has developed a strong interest in how local industries and economies can be deeply integrated into the identity of a city, and has provided extensive support to individual businesses as part of that vision.
It was about five years ago that Goto began visiting Kiryu and offering her insights to President Sunaga, the third-generation head of SUSAI (Susai Co., Ltd.).
She started by asking countless questions, diving deep into the weaving process and gradually organizing the various stages of production.
Only once she had a clear understanding of the overall picture did the challenges within the weaving business and its distribution structure begin to come into focus.
So what was it that drew Goto in so deeply—so much so that shortly after encountering SUSAI, she launched the factory brand Jacquard Works and began living between Tokyo and Gunma?
“Kiryu is a rare production area where the entire weaving process can be completed within the town itself, without relying on outside sources,” Goto explains.
“There are skilled artisans throughout the community, working in a division of labor that supports the textile industry as a whole.
There used to be more towns like this in Japan, but they’ve gradually become fewer. I grew up in a typical residential neighborhood, so this was my first time experiencing a place where an industry is truly rooted in the community—and I found that incredibly inspiring.”
However, even in Kiryu—a city with over 1,300 years of textile history—the number of workshops closing their doors is on the rise.
One of the major challenges facing the community is the aging population of artisans and the shortage of successors to carry on their craft.
“If we can find a way to rebuild an industry that’s deeply rooted in the community, I believe we can truly bring its energy back to life,” says Goto.
“There’s still so much more we can do—but because this kind of craftsmanship relies on a division of labor, I believe that by working together, we can carry these traditions forward and preserve something truly meaningful.”
On the day of our visit, we had the rare opportunity to witness a part of the production process that few people usually get to see.
Surrounded by the rhythmic hum of machinery, we watched as a craftsman skillfully twisted threads together by hand and replaced jacquard punch cards—each motion precise and purposeful.
We couldn’t help but be captivated, capturing every movement through the lens of our camera.
If more people could incorporate jacquard textiles into their everyday lives
The fabrics used in Jacquard Works products come from a wide range of sources.
Some are inspired by archived designs, while others are newly developed from shared ideas and concepts. There are even pieces that recreate illustrations by artists through weaving.
Driven by the desire to spark interest in jacquard textiles among a wider audience, the brand actively engages in cross-industry collaborations that go beyond the traditional boundaries of the textile world.
Until recently, most sales were conducted through the online store, but in the fall of 2024, Jacquard Works began expanding more actively with pop-up events held in various locations across Japan.
“I’ve always wanted to connect directly with customers,” says Goto, “especially since so many people living far from Kiryu have been purchasing our products online.”
In addition, the atelier shop located next to the SUSAI weaving factory is now regularly open to the public.
There, visitors can browse and purchase items from SUSAI’s factory brand, as well as fabric offerings for those who enjoy sewing and crafts.
From a distance, it looks vibrant and bold. Up close, it reveals delicate textures and intricate detail.
We invite you to experience the rich character and beauty of jacquard weaving for yourself.
-PROFILE-
Jacquard Works
Founded in 2022 as the factory brand of SUSAI, a jacquard textile mill, Jacquard Works creates everyday items that bring the rich texture and dimensional beauty of jacquard weaving into daily life.
By preserving the expressive quality woven into each individual thread, the brand continues to produce pieces that are both casually approachable and deeply crafted.
URL：https://shop.jacquard-works.jp/
Ryoko Goto
Director of Jacquard Works and CEO of URBANWORKS Inc.
In addition to her involvement in numerous urban development projects across the Kanto region, Goto is deeply interested in cities where local industries and economies are closely connected. She also supports startups and other businesses as part of this vision.
She began collaborating with SUSAI (Susai Co., Ltd.) around 2020 and went on to launch the factory brand Jacquard Works in 2022.
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