〈interview〉
The Story Behind REN Making BARE in Bali.
Of course, I understand.
Yet, time and time again, we must remember that all the leather used in REN's bags originally comes from animals that were skinned.
Soft, lightweight, and durable—BARE is an exceptionally appealing material for bags. The leather it is made from comes from goats.
We take the life of a goat and transform it into something beautiful.
BARE is crafted in Bali, Indonesia. Our local partner, Ms. Hamada, has been involved in the development of BARE since the early days of our company and has been a crucial part of our manufacturing process for nearly 16 years. Without Ms. Hamada, not only would BARE not exist as it does today, but REN itself might not have made it this far.
"Well, goat leather is... I'm not quite sure how to put it, but..."
After hesitating for a moment, Ms. Hamada spoke as if she had made up her mind.
"Animals that aren’t used for food often undergo harsh processing from rawhide to leather. But goats are different. In Indonesia, not only is the meat used, but even the bones are made into soup. In Japan, there’s a culture of using every part of the whale, even the baleen. It’s the same idea: we fully receive the life, transform it into something beautiful, and pass it on to the next generation. That’s why everyone here has a deep desire to create wonderful bags."
Who are these 'everyone' she is referring to? And what are her own sincere and earnest thoughts on craftsmanship?
とても、知りたくなりました。
The results born from thorough checks and rechecks.
First, I want to talk about the tanners who process the raw hides, transforming animal 'skin' into 'leather.'"The company that's currently producing the leather for BARE works with some of the world's top brands and even participates in Fashion Week—they're really talented. And what's more, they're not just selling us leftover leather from some other brand. They're making a custom blend just for us, which means we're asking them to do quite a bit of extra work."
It took about four rounds of back-and-forth to get the blend just right, experimenting to minimize color fading and maximize durability. After much trial and error, we finally achieved the desired result.
"So, every time we receive a new batch, I’m always impressed by the quality of the leather, but even then, there are still imperfections like scars or differences in the grain. There’s also the matter of finding the right leather for the right product. For example, if we use thin, delicate leather for something that requires more weight, like a backpack, it can be too soft and not a good fit."
We start by checking each piece individually.
"We inspect it visually, but also use our hands to assess the thickness, firmness, grain size, and any imperfections, then categorize the leather into five types."
From there, we move on to the 'cutting' process. Using a cutting machine would certainly speed things up, and this is how it's typically done. However, that approach doesn’t fully bring out the quality of the leather or allow us to create it in its best possible state. That’s why...
"Since the company’s founding, we had dedicated staff doing the cutting by hand, but I felt that I could achieve even better results if I did it myself. So for the past three years, I’ve been personally handling all the cutting."
Piece by piece, I carefully engage with the leather, thinking, 'How can I make this look the cutest and most beautiful?' I place the pattern on the grain side of the leather, and using a silver pen, I draw the cutting lines. A skilled craftswoman then cuts along these lines, and the head artisan gathers the pieces, creating sets that match in color and grain. After that, the manager and I conduct a final check. If everything is approved, we call in the other craftsmen, and we all check again. 'Including the inspections that happen during the sewing process, we end up checking about ten times,' Ms. Hamada says with a smile.
Check after check. It's such a meticulous process that you might find yourself wondering, 'Why go to such lengths?'
"After all, leather isn’t as uniform as industrial products like plastic. If we don’t give it the proper attention, the difference is striking—not just in color, but also in strength and beauty. The quality can vary by as much as 30 to 40 percent."
When I showed this to a sales representative from another bag manufacturer, they were amazed and said, 'You're going through all this trouble, and selling it at that price!?'
Like a puzzle, over and over again.
This time, the new color was particularly labor-intensive.
"It's a lilac-like gray, but the problem with light colors is that the underlying surface shows through too much, and it tends to develop uneven coloring, making it the most difficult to work with. We had stopped trying for about five years. But after working with our excellent tanner for over two years, the REN designer and I decided, 'We really want to try a light color again.'"
As the tanner's understanding of BARE deepened and we were able to stabilize the quality, we decided to take on the challenge of trying the light color we had always wanted to attempt.
▲Leather sample of the new color 'Greige.'
The ideal is to make all the colors uniform. However, achieving this is incredibly challenging. Of the 400 leather pieces we received, some had darkened backs or uneven coloring. 'Just like with people, there are slight variations in color. Plus, the way the dye absorbs varies between the hard and soft areas of the leather. But when you turn this into a bag, if there are dark and light patches, it can end up looking cheap. Honestly, it takes a huge amount of work, but I cut the patterns, and the craftsmen do the cutting. It's like doing a puzzle every day, over and over again.'
"And so, after all that effort, when it was finally completed and I inspected it myself, I was a bit moved."
"That's really true. Our work comes with a lot of responsibility."
Unlike fabric, with leather, even a single scratch can be irreparable. Because this kind of craftsmanship is so delicate, whenever an issue arises, Ms. Hamada often has a conversation with the artisans.
"I often ask, 'Is this a bag you would want to spend your own money on as a gift?' From a producer’s perspective, I understand that you’re tired from working carefully every day, and there are always deadlines and other reasons. But from the customer’s point of view, this is a very special item. It could be a Christmas or birthday gift for a girlfriend, or a mother giving it to her child as a college entrance gift. If it’s not in good condition or breaks easily, it’s really heartbreaking. So I always tell them, 'Let’s create bags that are so beautiful, you’d want to give them as a gift yourself.'"
And how do they respond? 'That’s really true. Our work carries a lot of responsibility. Let’s do our best.' They take it to heart, sometimes to the point where it’s almost painful. They’re really kind, you know. At their core, they’re incredibly kind-hearted.'
The bag is the culmination of the team's collective effort and skill. This includes the work of the tanners, and of course, the life of the goat as well.
"The most experienced sewing artisan has been in the industry for 27 years, and the least experienced for 11 years. These artisans are so skilled that they could be factory managers at other facilities. We work with a small, elite team, and if even one person is missing, we can’t produce quality work. If I make a mistake, it affects everyone and ruins the leather. With this mindset, everyone approaches their work with great care."
By the way, I became more curious about Ms. Hamada when she mentioned that if our team were a single person, she would be 'the brain.'
"My father was actually an engineer at HONDA. When I was little, he often told me, 'My job requires precision down to less than a millimeter; accuracy is incredibly important.'"
So, what does that mean...? Stay tuned for the rest of the story in the next part.